holley sniper efi iac problems

Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. Turned it off and on again. My IAC was constantly at 100% at idle. is the fuel pressure. The last pic is with the car in Drive. It will need to see it again and again. The Sniper resets the TPS to 0% each time that you key the system on. Note: The IAC breather hole is the roughly 1/4-inch triangular hole that sits above and between the secondaries. In some cases, you may only be able to put as little as 10 RPM between the hard idle and the target idle. It's not necessary to drive it that way. Handheld shows plenty of fuel so I dought it's an issue there. Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. But get that fuel system fixed before going any further. I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. These problems will go away when you do that. Going lower with the blanking might pay dividends, but there is so little room below 7/8 that you will quickly be in a range where every tiny variation in the TPS or MAP is throwing extra fuel into the engine. I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . It drops about 200rpm when clutch engages. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. The 10 step set up on your page set my idle perfect and iac perfect a very consitant 700. EFI parts, including the throttle body, and the problem persists.Please give me a hand. Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems. Physially manipulating the linkage by hand will generally reveal if you have a sticking linkage that is preventing the TPS from returning from zero. Thank you so much for your follow-up. The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" Thanks in advance for any advice. If you are idling at 2100 RPM (based on a default IAC Hold position of 30%) and your target idle speed is 900, then the ECU is not going to try to idle down. In the warm state IAC adjusted to a position of 2 to 10%. These are "transitional" cells, and you really have to make the effort to learn in these areas of the map. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. If I block off the iac with tape , I can get it to somewhat idle, but its not consistent. After 50 on the throttle position I'm not sure if the whistle goes away or you just can't here it anymore. There is no real mystery here. On startup- cold or hot, I get a 2 second high idle of about 1500 RPM before normal set idle of 750 RPM happens. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. The throttle plates are misaligned. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. I would start by removing the progressive linkage. Thanks Again for your help. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. Super helpful and knowledgeable. This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. I would recommend that you call first thing in the morning, as they tend to get quite busy during the day and wait times can get long. Of the two options, I generally recommend the self-learn. The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. I keep doing that with the same result. Even then, recognize that over time the IAC will need to be readjusted to compensate for minor changes that will cause it to drift. So, clearly, the "No" answer is wrong. I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. Note that sometimes you can get into a back-and-forth situation. 400 engine, C6 3 speed automatic, with standard canister coil for ignition, and If idle drops below 800 it wont come back itll chug around 300 rpm for a few seconds then die. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. Hope this helps! Going in the direction you did (higher) is going to reduce the acceleration fueling that the engine sees. when things aren't working and this provides just that. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. In the setup, I set the hot idle for 850. When the secondary throttle blades are centered in their bores and pivot freely, an additional return spring is not necessary. Sorry for all the questions, new to the efi world. Chris---I am contemplating replacing my Holley 750 on my new low vacuum 600 HP 496 with the Holley Sniper FI system. Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! He said they have been having an issue with these lately. Just thought I'd ask as there isn't a lot of info out there. Your closed loop compensation is adding a full 50% fuel. issue. If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. Its timed to 36 degrees. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JpHlS1ymBc, If this is your first visit, be sure to Then a little faster--until bogs at that level work themselves out. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. First, recognize that the IAC and the TPS are not inter-related in any way. Using a Snap-on variable timing light so this is why I say timing is perfect. Hey Chris, I installed a Holley sniper on a small block 400, first start was great! Thanks again. Yes, you are correct. Incorrect connections will result in excessive resistance. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. (If you do this you will need to reset the -40 degree setting mentioned at the top of this article. Lubricate the linkage so there isn't as much native resistance. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. I have one customer who is having some similar issues and his AFR is down at 9.6:1 when it won't start. The hold position is part of the response that keeps the car from dying when you come off the throttle. That, on top of your air leak, is allowing the engine to idle at 2400 RPM. I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. You are aware of the idle-up problem. Simply turn the idle speed screw on the linkage in until the throttle plates open enough for the idle to increase. All times are GMT-6. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. Unfortunately I did not buy my sniper efi from you. Fortunately, Holley has another product that can solve that: Hydramat.. Hydramat is not inexpensive but you won't believe what it can do. I know its not flooded because I can pour a little gas in the throttle body and play with the accelerator and it will start and run fine. I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. So the issue Im having is low idle. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. Let I have checked the pink wire and it is at .001 volts when key is off. If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. However, it is a good question so I thought I'd throw a few bits of info out there that I think might help.First, I believe that you may have a basic misunderstanding of what is being referred to sort of generically as AFR. Fortunately, these are much easier to solve. Glad to hear that things are working well! This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. :-) Just don't let the parts go flying. If you use your handheld to go here: I have an entire article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions and while Sniper is still a sound choice for some applications, Terminator X (with transmission control) is hands-down the way to go for those who need that. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. ?I never had my Carb Cold start RPM any higher then 1600 RPM.THANK YOU. As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. Solution #1 Put car in gear take off and the engine runs GREAT, no issues drive for 10minutes take car out of gear and engine idles correctly IAC between 2 and 5 Solution #2 Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. Note too that the larger the throttle stab, the more brief the time in that cell and the more gradual the change.Here's what I recommend: Get somewhere where you can repeatedly stop and go. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. Possibly cap, rotor, coil? If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. Cl. Check the Distributor Tach Connection to the EFI. It's the same one that Holley puts in their Sniper Master Kits and I've never heard anyone with anything but good things to say about it. Try it! If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. If you can track specific engine coolant temperatures where the engine stumbles and dies that would be a good place to start. I would start by datalogging the situation and seeing exactly what your learn table looks like in the area immediately around the tip-in. Are these compatible enough? It then started working normally again. Once engine is warmed up been driving for awhile. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. Capability Range: Professional :-). If your TPS is at zero and your IAC is at some random number above 8% (but not exactly 30%) then for some reason your engine has not met the conditions to ramp down to target idle. I think in some of the Wizards with the handheld it doesn't use 57.5 as the default. All times are GMT-6. Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! To keep it running in gear, I have to bump the neutral idle up just over 1000 RPM. Hello, I am having a tps and idle issue. Tuning > Advanced > Adv Idle > IAC Startup Cycled the ignition off. As I have it set right now, my idle at park is in the high 700s and my desired idle in gear is set at about 700 cold (80 degrees) and gradually lowers to 590 once engine temp reaches 160 degrees. Only show this user . The biggest issue is these problems are intermittent meaning they do not occur all the time. I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. What an amazing site you have here. If i set the idle to 750, the only way i can get it there is to turn the idle screw all the way out but then its at 0 iac. Hot start it most of the time wont start unless I give it a little throttle. Ultimately, it is about making the pedal softer, particularly at initial throttle opening. I would suggest you take a look at that if you haven't already. I never had a problem with this. I have driven car about 200 miles. Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. around 45 mph it bogs down, catches itself, bogs, catches, bogs and catches. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure GaugeI think its a little ridiculous that I cant see fuel pressure on the display even though its measuring it but whatever. And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table Even though the Sniper's fuel map is programmed to provide the correct amount of fuel via injectors spraying at 60 PSI, if the pressure is jacked up to 90 PSI the wideband sees that you are rich and faster than you can even detect it audibly lowers the duty cycle to inject the correct amount of fuel. They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. MAP Sensor. Ive also used another snap on light to confirm. Shutoff engine wait 30 seconds, turn key wait for display to come up, start engine. Good luck! Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems. It is a common one. I appreciate everything you are saying. Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. This is very disappointing as people love to hear the motor while the hood is open.Thanks Jon. If you look down and your TPS is 2% then either your throttle is stuck slightly open (which itself will cause the idle-up) or RFI riding on the TPS signal has caused the ECU to see the throttle as open and, as a result, open the IAC to the hold position. I received from the controller manufacturer greatly understates (at best) the repeated failures of others I know personally who have tried and failed. I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. But I still get the iac at 0 and the rpm at 1200. I will turn it up some. That 90% of problems, (INCLUDING MYSELF) could be answered/fixed by just reading the instructions. The Sniper will be controlling the timing so it will be based on a multitude of factors. Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. Thank you. THANK YOU for the "First--Check Your Idle Speed Curve Setting!" Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. After the start process, If the idle speed is higher than the target idle then the IAC should begin closing as long as the TPS is below 2%. Took it for a lap around the block and came back. Take it a step at a time. I will confirm TDC with balancer but I have had balancer off and timed it before and after with same results. Next, clean the IAC and all related parts with brake cleaner.

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